Ciriole alla ternana con la salsa di pomodoro

for 4 people

FOR THE SAUCE:

3 ½ CUPS CANNED PLUM TOMATOES –

 OR  3 ½ CUPS FRESH TOMATOES – peeled, seeded, and chopped 

2 LARGE CLOVES GARLIC – minced

5 TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

½ TEASPOON SEA SALT

FRESHLY GROUND WHITE OR BLACK PEPPER

Ciriole, the homemade pasta of Terni,i s much the same as the other fresh pastas you’ll find all over Umbria. Around Terni, folks often eat them plain with tomato sauce, or else with a simple sauce of funghi di pioppo, tomatoes, basil, and, if there happen to be any on hand, a few mussels. I’m giving you the plain tomato version first, though it may seem almost too humble to mention. Still, in a country where many Americans are used to pouring sauce from a jar, a dish this good and this easy deserves a place at the table. It may even help a timid cook find a little courage.

When a sauce is made from so few things, every one of them matters. There’s nowhere to cover up a poor tomato or a dull olive oil. So choose ripe, thick plum tomatoes — fresh if you can get them, canned if you must — along with fresh garlic and a good, full-flavored extra-virgin olive oil. As a rule, this pasta is served without cheese.

If you can’t find handmade ciriole, bucatini makes a fine substitute. Ciriole is another name for the beloved umbrielli of Umbria.

TO MAKE THE SAUCE:

To make the sauce, in a heavy-bottomed saucepan, com-

bine the tomatoes, garlic, and 2 tablespoons of the olive

oil. Bring to a boil over high heat and continue to cook

a fuoco vivace, that is, over a lively flame, until thickened,

about 20 minutes.

PUTTING IT TOGETHER:

6 quarts water

1 pound Handmade Umbricelli

or  store-bought bucatini

2 tablespoons coarse sea salt

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Meanwhile, bring the water to a rapid boil in a large pot.

Just before the sauce is ready, add the pasta and the salt to

the boiling water and stir well. If you are using fresh

pasta, when the water returns to a boil, drain the pasta; it

should be cooked through. If you are using bucatini, follow

the package directions to cook them al dente, usually

about 8 minutes (because they are hollow, bucatini over-

cook in an instant, so watch the pot carefully). Drain

and pour into a warmed large, shallow bowl.

Stir the salt, pepper to taste, and the remaining 3 table-

spoons olive oil into the sauce, then pour the sauce over

the pasta. Toss well and serve at once.

BUON MANGIATA!